Collection: Part 3

Research

Dream of the Red Chamber

The story tells about the fall and the rise of four families during the Qing dynasty. The novel is remarkable for its detailed observation of the life and social structures typical of 18th-century Chinese aristocracy.

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Wealth

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'Wealth'

  • Feudal society

During Qing dynasty the society were divide into four classes, because of this the poor were never be able to be rich and the rich were always be in the top of the society, which this resulted to cause several human complex behaviours. In the book 'Dream of the Red chamber' however questions about the wealth, as at the end the author portrays a tragical image of the high class, presenting a melancholic sensation to the viewer. This is further contrasted with the happiness and healthiness of the ordinary people. At the beginning of the chapter the author describes the charge of one of the characters from a wealthy family 'Jiamu' with possessions and power however her body is old and cannot longer walk, this is contrasted with a lower class woman in the same age of her being independent and able to walk, which this makes me want to question about the purpose of luxury. 

  • Feudal Marriage

The author further portrays the idea of unconditional love, hight social class were pair up in order to degenerate to create series of nobility, because of this in the book several characters try to find the desirable love, however this resulted to be loosing themselves which this made me to question about identity.

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Prada F/W 1999. Gwyneth Paltrow by Steven Meisel

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Focusing on this particular garment, I really like the nude sensation because the visibility of the skin makes me feel as if there nothing hiding behind which this shows  innocence and purity.  Furthermore the simple shape of the garment creates transparency throughout the viewers eyes, which this makes me feel really comfortable.

However the cold blue of the garment makes me feel at the same time bitter and melancholic, thus contrasting with the whole shape of the garment which this evokes the idea of observing things in more depth, the feeling is more important than what it appears. This made me question about the idea of  first impression. 

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"Dream"

'CaoXueQing' reflects on the twist and the turns that society is bound to collapse by a dreamlike sense.The name of the main family, "贾" is pronunced the same in Mandarin as "假" which means false, fake, fictitious, deceitful or sham. 

Furthermore the novel is called 'Red Mansion' , thus "Red"  suggests the Buddhist idea that the whole world is "red dust" (红尘), merely illusory and to be shunned.

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Plot

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The story's preface has supernatural Taoist and Buddhist overtones. A sentient Stone, when she mended the heavens aeons ago, begs a Taoist priest and Buddhist monk to bring it to see the world, falls in love with a Crimson Pearl Flower, which Jia Baoyu is the reincarnation  for the stone and Lindaiyu as the flower.

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花 “Spring”

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蔣勳老師

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Milton Avery, Its about Time

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Spring Landscape, 1940

His abstract paintings conveys a sense of fantasy, the use of watercolours makes the whole painting look blurred as if the place cannot be identified because the play of green against grey creates a sense of movement on the surface of the painting, which shows a vision of contours and surfaces.

 I really like the artist work because Avery expresses an idea of dream and as if the things we see are just are optical precision, thus giving precise poetic resonance as the structure of the image is at once very lean, very delicate, and yet very firm, with nothing, just in its simple forms.

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'I never have any rules to follow'-1952 'I follow myself'

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Katie Roberts-Wood, presented the SS17 collection of her namesake label, ROBERTS | WOOD in London.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2016

Interested in Robert Woods because it influenced me about thinking on materials, how this can affect the whole feeling of the garment. The idea that she uses fluffy and silky fabrics makes the whole garment look more dreamlike yet this is contrasted with the nude and simple colours which the whole attention is reflected on the material and form.

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‘Scattered' Nothing but a dream

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王熙凤 ‘Sinister'

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Baoyu's elder Cousin-in-law.

The author conveys the idea of fake and superficiality by the character WangXiFeng. In the beginning of the novel she is represented in a capable, clever and amusing way becuase Xifeng is in charge of the daily running of the Rongguo household and keeps both Lady Wang and Grandmother Jia entertained with her constant jokes and amusing chatter, which this shows how powerful she is .

However as the novel continues, the author portrays her as being helpless toward the poor and cruel enough to kill, therefore suggesting that she is one of the most multi-faceted personalities in the novel.

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Imagery Vision

 The author evokes a sense of  confusion, it mentions that Baoyu occasionally dreams of another Baoyu, whose surname is 'real' ,however we never get seen, which makes me feel the idea that the author wants to hide something from the viewer or as if everything is fake. From this chapter it makes me feel that Baoyu did not find the reason and value of its own existence, which makes me think that this is very common nowadays. This resulted to cause the promblem that society would not ease if one doesn't find themselves.  

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Molly Goddard’s Fashion in Motion

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Goddard has carved an environment that makes me feel a sense of comfort and suitability in the position of life because she conveys traditional craft based process in a dreamlike fairytale princess at a tea part charm which this inspired me to use the contrast between the colours to  highlight a unique feeling and sensation. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oMKiVS5fT8

http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/9998/artful-amalgamation-at-molly-goddard-s-fashion-in-motion

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Molly Goddard’s Resort 2018

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The uncoditional love of 'Baoyu' and 'LindaiYu'

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 The author wants to reveal the complex contradiction of the feudal family, performance of the feudal marriage, morality and  culture.  The author clearly represents the love that cannot be reached by the rules of the elderly as "Baoyu" is compromised with a nobility girl 'Baochai', a melancholic and depressed sense can be directly catch by the viewers attention .

They  both love each other more that they love themselves just like when spring blows its flowers as in the end "LindaiYu" dies in her own bed and 'Baoyu" becomes a Taoist Monk.

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Circulism

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Lindaiyu is represented  as a flower that has been watered everyday by the stone'Baoyu' from richness and ecstasy, however the author mentions,

'I do not have enough water to return' The word 'return' can be metaphorically understand as retain. The author wants to convey the idea that 'lindaiyu' owes tears to 'Baoyu' in the last life, thus when the flower become to be  'Lindaiyu', she returns it for the whole life.

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'The origin and the end of creation'

The point is the beginning of everything 
and also the end.
If you can really understand it
You will feel indeed the great life of the universe
and the value of your existence.

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Li Yuan-Chia

Li Yuan-Chia evokes the idea of journey, he said 'is not only travel in the physical sense but also a metaphor for moving between, or beyond, many different sorts of categories which are taken to be opposed' The  use of simplistic dots makes me feel a sense of infinity, a representation of the entirely or wholeness of the universe. The influenced me to explore and suggest ideas in a minimalistic way.

Personally I see his work being represented in a fairly embryonic state, that the universe had been ended and started in the same way just like his plain background and the small dots on the canvases , I can feel a sense of emptiness and blankness when looking at his work.

 

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'Untitled'

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Space-Time-Life

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清(1644 – 1911)

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Viktor&Rolf Défilé Haute Couture - Autumn/Winter 1999

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“The Viagra of couture week.”

Viktor&Rolf show was very unusual and distinctive, presenting the model at first in a frayed minidress of hessian sackcloth, and the last, a mountainous, flower-festooned cape coat.

Personally I'm interested on the change of the garment through the show, how the structure of the shape and the forms becomes bigger and bigger which this inspired me to think about the forms and the silhouette I'm engaged with.  From the show slowly each time becomes to be more formal and structured with this conveys a sense of wealth and nobility, thus linking back to my idea of the change of social status.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=viktor+and+rold+1999

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Matisse

The necessity of Beauty 

Mel Gooding 

'Beauty is truth, truth beauty- that is all 

Ye know on earth, and all ye need to know'

John Keats 'Ode on a Grecian Urn'

'Sensation, revelation' Georges Braque

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‘黛玉葬花’ Flower funeral

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In this chapter Baoyu finds peach blossoms on the ground, he thinks how such beautiful thing can be on the ground thus he throws them onto the water. However Lindaiyu comes and  says 'once the water flows out, it would be also dirty so its better to burry them on the ground so as the time pass by, the flower flow away and everything will be gone. Others will take this a laughter as they could not understand why flowers should be buried  however for Lindaiyu is the remembrance of her youth, the author emphasis that she  bury's her own destiny. 

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Growth- Colours

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L'artiste et le modele nu,1921

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Chapter 5, Life existence

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The author wants to convey the idea that one find life existence from loneliness, as by the time goes, reflection and change begins and is when something new happens. In the Chinese literature it metaphorical talks about how a stone changes from a person, beginning to have feelings and senses so the authour conveys the idea that we can not look down on the value of any life. This makes me think the idea that, whether we can end by ourselves or do we need a label on our body in order to have enough confidence. This realisation made me think about self identification and existence.

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Methods and Materials& 27.07.2017

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Hussein Chalayan

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Complex human relations,1791

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Valentino Haute couture Winter 1993

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Valentino Dress and over tunic fall winter 1993. Black silk satin and cotton lace with seed bead embroidery. I really like the designers work because  Valentino outfit is close in overall effect to a Chinese jacket, using a black lace and beading which  surprisingly differentiates the contemporary garment from its several possible source. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kec2crFuL38&t=96s

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Simone Rocha, SS15FLOWER FRIENDS

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Hero pieces: Anything with pearls.

The designer explores on the different sensation of love from presenting deep back garments and slowly turning to become to be lighter and lighter because she emphasises the idea that love grows upon the body. Furthermore I like the movement of the silk fabrics because it creates a delicacy when looking at it and her neon printed flowers creating a sense of playfulness. It was a collection about emotional life. 

This influenced me to look at the materials I could explore on in order to convey different feelings to the viewer.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/simone-rocha

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Flowers, Cranes, and Clouds

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Celine SS17

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Tunic dresses, smocks and the like — and elevated them with dramatic silhouettes. Frills exploded out of dresses’ sides, smocks ballooned out at the bottom and oversized ribbons were wound tight round sleeves.

Adventurous silhouettes and dramatic forms did the talking, here. It’s a dreamy, theatrical abstraction of everyday clothing.

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Gai Qi改琦(1773-1828)

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  • Wealth 
  • Beautiful and absurd

The artist questions about the purpose of luxury and wealth, because in one of the chapter it talks about Bayou sister being married to a wealth family in order to degenerate the nobility however she does not find any happiness which this makes me think the idea that it is more important in  the process of growth to become the kind of person that finds happiness.

 

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Maison Agnès, Beaded & Embroidered Evening Dress of Green Watered Silk, Paris

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Callot Soeurs Evening Dress - 1924-5 - by Callot Soeurs (French, active 1895-1937)

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Loose and delicate soft shapes creating a dreamlike feeling 

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Jonathan Anderson

'New feels old and old feels new.'

He says 'Things change, and you've got to work with it. And I don't necessarily believe in the idea of luxury anymore, its very dated concept. Its very airport life'  This realisation made me wonder on what is considered to be luxurious and what do we appreciate nowadays.  

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Evening Gown,1920's

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Silk, gunmetal beading at hips, deep cartridge pleated skirt flounce

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Nude Catwalk, Gravity Fatigue, 2015

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Nature of people, Self exploration

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Symbols in Qing dynasty

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Different symbols during the Qing dynasty conveys altered meanings, this was only appeared on the garments for the wealth people as they were like a lucky charm for them. This made me think the idea that in the past, every print and patterns were meaningful. 

  • Mountains-Stability
  • Waaterseed- Puritiy
  • Grain- Social Status
  • Fire- Judgements
  • Metal- Respect
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Curation

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A romantic feeling 

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Le fleur

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Pina Bausch et Nelken. 13 juin 1983

Perfomance art, Contemporary Dance

http://fresques.ina.fr/en-scenes/fiche-media/Scenes00869/pina-bausch-et-nelken.html

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The soft movements of the dancers creates a comfortable and peaceful sensation, however this is contrasted with the darkness of the staging highlighting  the roses on the floor , as if the happiness has been slowly drifting down, conveying the idea that everything is just an illusion. The abstraction of the perfomance makes me feel lost and confused, thus this inspired me to distort and convey thing in a abstract way in order to crate blurred vision and untouched sensation.

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At CSM MA Show, the Spirit of Margiela

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Palomo Spain,flamboyant frills styled on men

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear , Marriage

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